A Cat Island in the Seto Inland Sea: A Winter Story of Cats and Umbrellas on Sanagi Island

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Located between Okayama and Kagawa, Sanagi Island became famous for a photo of a “Flying Cat” ( 飛び猫 ) on Instagram. Compared to popular islands like Tashirojima, Enoshima, or Ainoshima, Sanagi Island is relatively unknown. My decision to visit was, in a way, an accident. I hadn’t planned to come here, but during a conversation with someone, the topic of “cat islands” came up, which triggered my memory. Since my travel destination was already set, I could only look for an island that wasn’t too far from my original plan. That’s how I found several cat paradises scattered across different prefectures in Japan, including:

1. Tashirojima, Miyagi Prefecture
2. Enoshima, Kanagawa Prefecture
3. Okishima, Shiga Prefecture
4. Manabeshima, Okayama Prefecture
5. Sanagi Island and Ogijima, Kagawa Prefecture
6. Aoshima and Muzukijima, Ehime Prefecture
7. Iwai Island, Yamaguchi Prefecture
8. Ainoshima and Ainoshima, Fukuoka Prefecture
9. Yushima, Kumamoto Prefecture
10. Kakarajima, Saga Prefecture
11. Oujima and Taketomi Island, Okinawa Prefecture

Although my destination included Tokyo, my Tokyo schedule was already packed, leaving no time to spare for a day trip to Enoshima in Kanagawa. That meant my options were limited to the small islands between Okayama and Kagawa. I ended up choosing Sanagi Island because of that famous “Flying Cat” photo, and the transportation seemed straightforward. If I timed it well, I could even fit in one or two more sightseeing spots. Coincidentally, in order to save on airfare, I moved my departure up by a day. After adjusting my itinerary, I finally managed to make time for a trip to Sanagi Island.

Sanagi Island Location and Transportation

Sanagi Island, located in Tadotsu Town, Nakatado District, Kagawa Prefecture, Japan, is a hidden paradise for cat lovers in the Seto Inland Sea. It is said that the island’s name originated from Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, the third shogun of the Muromachi shogunate. While on his way to worship at Itsukushima Shrine, he encountered strong winds and took refuge here. When the winds subsided, he named the place “Hayanagi” ( 早凪/はやなぎ ), which later evolved into “Sanagi Island.”

From Tadotsu Port, a boat ride of about 14.8 kilometers north will take you to this peaceful island. Sanagi Island has two main settlements－Motoura and Nagasaki—located at the southern and northern ends of the island, respectively. Most of the cats are found in Motoura. The island’s residents mainly engage in fishing and farming, living at a slow and self-sufficient pace. What brought Sanagi Island fame and attention from visitors and the internet are its freely roaming cats, which have also earned it the affectionate nickname “Cat Island.”

Strolling around the island, you’ll find yourself walking side by side with the cats along the road, or capturing close-up shots of them gracefully leaping between concrete barriers. There’s no need to lure them with food—they’ll warm up to you naturally. These friendly cats have not only attracted many visitors but also drew the attention of renowned animal photographer Mitsuaki Iwago, who came here to shoot for his photo book Mitsuaki Iwago’s World Cats Travelogue, leaving behind many treasured images.

In recent years, Sanagi Island has risen to fame on Instagram thanks to the iconic “Flying Cat” photo, making it one of the must-visit pilgrimage spots for cat lovers. Compared to other famous cat islands such as Ogijima, Manabeshima, and Aoshima, Sanagi Island is less well-known, which only adds to its quiet, mysterious charm－perfect for travelers seeking peace and relaxation. On the day I visited, I encountered only about five local residents, and the stillness of the island allowed me to set aside the day’s worries and simply enjoy the time spent with the cats. The sea views around Sanagi Island are vast and breathtaking, and time itself seems to slow down here, leaving me with precious memories of my interactions with the cats and a deep sense of warmth from the kindness of the locals.

There are two ways to get to Sanagi Island by boat. Here, I’ll share both: one is the classic route I’ve taken myself, and the other is a Saturday-only option I’d like to try next time.

Classic Access Route (Non-Saturday)

The main way to reach Sanagi Island is to take the JR Yosan Line to Tadotsu Station, then either take a taxi or walk to Tadotsu Port.

I recommend walking to Tadotsu Port during the day, and in the evening, taking a taxi back to the station using a ride-hailing app for a more relaxed return. On the way to the port, there are plenty of interesting sights, such as buildings constructed during the Taisho era, a shrine with playground equipment, black-and-white warehouses reminiscent of Kurashiki, and even a café worth visiting for antique lovers. Strolling along and taking in the scenery makes the walk feel far from tiring.

The island has two ports: Motoura and Nagasaki. As mentioned earlier, most of the cats are in Motoura, so I recommend buying a ticket to Motoura only—it’s also cheaper. There are only four ferry departures a day (see timetable), usually two in the morning and two in the afternoon. Be sure to check the time of the last ferry, or you won’t be able to return to the city. It’s best to arrive early and buy your ticket at the ticket booth on the pier, as heavy crowds could mean missing out on a seat—and the next ferry could be a long wait away.

If you arrive early, there’s a great udon shop near the port called Kogane Seimenjo Tadotsu. Their portions are generous and the prices are reasonable. I ordered a medium bowl of udon with tempura, and it was so filling I nearly couldn’t finish it.

Saturday-Only Route: Visiting Two Islands in One Day

This method allows you to visit both Manabeshima and Sanagi Island in a single day. Start with Manabeshima in the morning, as it has more ferry departures. From Sanagi Island to Manabeshima, there’s only one ferry at 14:50, arriving at Manabeshima at 15:10. The last ferry from Manabeshima back to Kasaoka Port departs at 17:28. Manabeshima offers more to see than Sanagi Island, so two hours may not be enough to explore it fully—something to keep in mind when planning your schedule.

To get to Manabeshima, walk about 10 minutes from JR Kasaoka Station to Kasaoka Port (Shimojima Pier) and take a ferry. Stay until 14:30, when there’s a boat to Sanagi Island, arriving at 14:50. The last ferry back to Tadotsu Port from Sanagi departs at 17:10. If your goal is simply to spend time with the cats, two hours is plenty. However, if you also want to visit the island’s only café for a short break, things will feel a bit rushed. Below is a Japanese travel video that introduced me to this possible route—feel free to check it out for reference.

Cat Locations on the Island and Introduction to the Café–Guesthouse

On the day of my trip, the weather was cold with a light drizzle. I was a little worried the cats might all be hiding from the cold and that I wouldn’t see a single one on the entire island. With that unease in mind, I waited for the ferry to dock. To my surprise, the moment I stepped ashore, a mixed-breed cat walked straight toward me. The encounter was so sudden that all I could do was snap a blurry photo of it.

Perhaps for that reason, a large number of cats were gathered around the ferry waiting area.

Some of them wandered off to play in the nearby grassy area, while others strolled along the concrete path by the seaside or sat idly on the concrete barriers. One even hid inside a drainage ditch to shelter from the wind.

The main route I took that day was from the pier to Nekonoshima Hostel, the island’s only café and guesthouse. This café–guesthouse was originally the local elementary school, which, after being abandoned, was taken over and renovated by the owner couple. From the outside, it has a charming atmosphere. I had planned to take shelter from the rain there and enjoy a cup of coffee, but unfortunately, I visited on a Monday－its regular closing day.

Because I had added an extra day to my itinerary at the last minute, there was one night when I hadn’t booked a place to stay. I originally thought about heading straight here from the airport, especially since I was traveling light with just a backpack. But even if my Tigerair flight had arrived in Okayama on time without delays, I still wouldn’t have made the last ferry to Sanagi Island. In the end, I had to give up on the idea and stay in Okayama City instead.

From Nekonoshima Hostel to the abandoned branch office and post office, the walk felt a bit lonely—no cats accompanied me along the way. The seascape here is different from that near the pier. There’s a slight cliff-like feel, with concrete barriers drawing a sharp line between land and sea. It gave me a sense of being alone at the edge of the world. The wind was cool, yet my heart felt at ease.

A little farther ahead, you can see the abandoned post office. Since someone had left food here, a few cats had gathered in the area. Even if you got a bit closer while they were eating, they wouldn’t get upset. However, there were far fewer cats compared to earlier spots, making this the last place on the island where I saw a small group of them together.

Walking from the abandoned post office back toward the pier, you’ll come across Hachiman Shrine. It seems to be an unmanned shrine, and although it feels a bit deserted, taking a photo from inside looking out allows you to capture both the shrine and the ocean in the same frame, a truly beautiful sight.

The cats are often found playing around the stone pillars outside the shrine.

Continuing toward the pier, you’ll pass through the local residential area, where many buildings have already been damaged or demolished. I later found out that Sanagi Island still has around 60 residents, but it felt to me like there were even fewer. The island was so quiet it was almost a little eerie, with the occasional sight of cats weaving through the abandoned houses.

Along the way, cats would appear here and there, but the largest gathering was still around the ferry waiting area. When the rain began to show signs of getting heavier, I returned there to take shelter and play with the cats. The cats here are surprisingly clever, since they aren’t allowed inside the waiting area, they seem to know this rule, and even when someone opens the door, none of them try to slip in.

When the ferry appeared at the pier, it marked the end of my journey for the day. I wished I could spend more time playing with the cats, if only I could stay overnight. Unfortunately, it just wasn’t the right timing for that.

No Flying Cats, but Cats That Climb Onto People

On Sanagi Island, feeding the cats is allowed, but you must clean up afterward. I had prepared disposable plates for the food, but since I decided to change my plans and come to Sanagi at the last minute, I forgot to buy cat food. I had hoped there might be some for sale at the pier or on the island, but there wasn’t. I thought that without food, I wouldn’t be able to lure any cats close enough for photos. To my surprise, the cats came near me anyway, even without treats. I was so touched.

Because of the bad weather, I had already given up on taking photos like the ones on Instagram. While I was resting in the ferry waiting area and playing with the cats, one suddenly came over and rubbed against my leg. Just as I was enjoying the moment, it suddenly leapt onto my back. It all happened so fast, thankfully my footing was steady, and within a few seconds I managed to regain my balance. No sooner had I done that than another cat jumped onto my lap, marking the first time in my life I’ve ever had two cats clinging to me at once.

Although I enjoyed having two cats playing on me, I couldn’t keep holding a squatting position forever. In the end, I had to lean over onto the ground so they would get off, my body just couldn’t hold out any longer. It’s a shame; I should have trained my stance to be steadier and used a wider-angle lens for better shots. Still, for the experience of being “decorated” with cats, I’ll definitely come back if I get the chance.

A Chance Encounter on the Ferry: An Umbrella Gifted on a Rainy Day

When heading to Sanagi Island, I thought all the ferries would be about the same, but it turns out there are differences in the interiors. On the first deck, in addition to the usual seating, there was actually a floor space where you could take off your shoes (bare feet not allowed) and sit on the floor to rest. The floor was heated, which amazed me, and I immediately relaxed once I slipped off my shoes and sat down. I discovered this space by chance when disembarking on the outbound trip and decided right then to sit on the first deck for the return instead of going to the second deck. The first deck also had a vending machine for drinks. Since I got a bit wet in the rain on the way back, being able to enjoy a hot drink there was truly something to be grateful for.

Although the first deck cabin was wonderful, the sea view from the second deck was also quite nice. At first, when I boarded, I obediently sat in a seat inside the second deck cabin, but then I noticed an older man from the same ferry going to sit outside. I immediately followed and took a seat outside as well. The wind was a bit chilly, but luckily the rain was just a light sprinkle, so I could still enjoy the view and take photos. Unlike the boundless ocean I saw when visiting Little Kinmen, the Seto Inland Sea is dotted with islands of various sizes, adding a touch of charm to the endless expanse of water.

The cabin’s television had a GPS tracking system that showed the ferry’s current location on the sea at any time, a surprisingly thoughtful touch.

As I was getting off the ferry and preparing to walk back to Tadotsu Station, I was suddenly called out to by a woman. I felt there was a special connection with her, after all, the reason I discovered the floor seating area on the first deck was because I saw her getting up from there. I happened to run into her again on the return trip, also seated on the floor. She even stretched out and lay down to rest, and I secretly lay down for a moment too. It felt great, but worried it might be impolite, I got up quickly.

I never expected her to call out to me after disembarking. She handed me a warm-colored umbrella, gesturing that it was for me to use. A wave of warmth filled my heart. In truth, the rain wasn’t heavy, and my jacket was somewhat water-resistant, so walking back to the station wouldn’t have been a problem. But my Japanese isn’t good enough to explain that, so I simply accepted it with gratitude. As it turned out, I was lucky to have the umbrella, by the time I got back to Okayama City, it was pouring. Although my hotel wasn’t far from the station, without an umbrella I would have been completely soaked. I was truly thankful for it.

Conclusion – Missed the Perfect Weather for Photos, but Experienced the Warmth of Locals and Cats: Feeling Fortunate

Although the weather on this Sanagi Island trip kept me from taking the long-awaited “Flying Cat” photo, I unexpectedly captured a picture of cats clinging to me—which was incredibly lucky. My jacket also turned out to be sturdier than I had expected. When the cat was on my back, I could feel its claws scratching, and I had mentally prepared myself for a few new marks or holes. In the end, the jacket remained completely intact—its quality was truly impressive.

Another little incident happened during the trip: I accidentally left my train ticket on the train and thought I would just have to buy a new one. After paying for a replacement ticket, however, the station staff told me, “If you find your original ticket later, you can bring the receipt back to the station for a refund.” I was surprised that this was even possible. Since the ticket was lost on the train, I knew I couldn’t find it on my own. Still, I held onto a bit of hope and typed into a translation app: “I left my ticket on the train.” Once the staff understood, they asked me which train I had taken. Fortunately, the Yosan Line train only had voice announcements for stations, which made me nervous enough to keep my transit app open the entire time to ensure I wouldn’t miss my stop. This also meant I still had my recent trip information on my phone to show the staff.

The staff said they would contact the crew of that train to see if they could find my ticket and asked me to wait. However, since I couldn’t miss the ferry to Sanagi Island, I used the translation app again to tell them, “I’m going to Sanagi Island and need to leave first.” They understood and told me to check back in the evening. When I returned that night, the staff member from earlier wasn’t there, but another older station attendant saw me and gestured for me to head to the back. There, a younger staff member recognized me, brought me back to the counter, and helped me process the refund. I was so relieved—my 1,200 yen fare was saved, though it was quickly spent again on my return train ticket.

This trip was full of unexpected turns and pleasant surprises. While many things didn’t go according to plan, losing my train ticket, failing to find the Slowpoke manhole cover, discovering the café I wanted to visit only opened at 2 p.m., and missing the chance to photograph a “Flying Cat” due to bad weather, there were just as many wonderful moments. I got my ticket back, enjoyed delicious tempura at the udon shop, had two cats clinging to me, and was unexpectedly gifted an umbrella just in time for the rain. Though I had started the trip feeling unwell and in low spirits, these small but heartwarming moments left me happy on the journey back.

The warmth of Sanagi Island’s cats and residents filled this trip with kindness and joy. The helpful station staff, the gentle generosity of the local woman, and the affectionate cats all gave me a completely different impression of this little island. Even in winter, Sanagi Island has its own special charm. Next time, I will definitely return, to drink coffee, photograph the cats, and savor the peace and beauty this place has to offer.

＊Unless otherwise noted, all photos in this article were taken by the author (yanshoto.com) during personal travels and are fully copyrighted. Please do not reproduce or use them for commercial purposes without prior permission. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

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